Three days of ramen, rooftops & quiet gardens

Arrive before 8am for empty halls and misty incense; walk the Kaminarimon gate first for the classic photo.

Try the warm ningyo-yaki cakes and melon pan here, and pick up a hand-painted fan as a souvenir.

Book a timed ticket online for the Tembo deck; go late afternoon if you can stand the crowd for the sunset view.

Wander the tiny alley bars and pick one with a hand-lettered door; most seat only a handful, so be polite and order a highball.

Stroll the old moats and stone walls in the calm morning light; the Ninomaru lawns are especially peaceful before 10am.

Admire the restored red-brick station facade, then browse the Ramen Street and character shops underground.

Go hungry: grab tamagoyaki on a stick and a tuna rice bowl, and arrive before the stalls get too busy.

A tidal Edo-era garden with a teahouse on the pond; sit by the water and sip matcha to slow the afternoon down.

Walk the long forested approach to the shrine; it's one of the most serene spots in the city, even on busy days.

Browse architect-designed flagships and Kiddy Land style shops; stop at a stylish cafe for an early lunch.

A design bookstore in a Klein Dytham building; browse the magazines, then relax with a coffee in the reading lounge.

Watch the scramble from the Starbucks window above, then duck into Nonbei Yokocho for yakitori at a tiny counter.