Three days of tarts, tiles & terraces

Arrive early when the riverside square is quiet, and watch the light spill across the Tagus arch.

Climb the short path uphill to this Romanesque cathedral, then step inside to see its weathered cloister.

Pause at the tiled terrace for a classic view over red rooftops, then have a cold drink in the shade.

Spend the afternoon on the castle walls, best reached by the steep climb through Alfama's lanes.

Queue for warm custard tarts with a sprinkle of cinnamon, eaten standing up at the counter.

Browse the world's oldest bookshop, still operating since 1732, with its wooden shelves and quiet reading corners.

Take in the sweeping city panorama and go early for a seat on the stone wall at golden hour.

Wander the narrow streets at dusk, then settle into a tiny tasca for petiscos and a glass of vinho verde.

Board early to claim a seat on the wooden tram as it rattles through the historic streets toward Graça.

Reach this hilltop lookout for the widest views in the city, and catch the breeze on the old stone steps.

Hunt for azulejo tiles, vintage postcards and old maps among the stalls, haggling politely on prices.

End the trip grazing across the food stalls: try the bacalhau, a bifana sandwich and a glass of port.